奈良－京都旅行笔记之一:从德岛到奈良
2004年12月30日，天气相当不错，虽然没有看黄历，但我相信是出门的好日子。前一天已经订好了奈良和京都的青年旅馆，吃过饭简单收拾了一下行李，先到了学校。研究室的黑田要回神户的家中过年，说要把我捎到神户。约好下午1点出发，他还要到Koei买德岛的特产Sudachi(一种酸橘，很小很酸)，现在不是应季，价格比平时高出好几倍。还有Udon，是一种很粗的面条，用鱼汤煮了吃，是他妈妈特别嘱他买的。又陪他去麦当劳吃了午餐，还要给汽车加油。也许是在加油站的吸入了太多汽油的缘故，后来在高速公路一直有点晕车。
黑田的车很破，是他高知的朋友送他的(代价是一顿饭)，车很破，开的倒很快。一路超了很多车，时速一度达到180公里。3点30分到达神户，他一直把我送到芦屋(Ashiya)，然后我们告别，他回附近的家，我花1050日元买了一张票，赶上最先到的一列火车，乘JR去奈良。
在日本乘火车确实是很愉快的经历，舒适而干净，车次多，绝对准时。只停靠了两站就到了大阪，然后换乘大和路特快去奈良。大阪站很大，于是问了站台的一个工作人员。那人长的像极了香港的一个明星，他很有耐心，很详细地为我指出应该怎样乘车。其实他说的我大都听不懂，我只需要他指给我地下道的出口。
从大阪乘火车到奈良，一路上经过了几千万土地，很多停靠的站台都是以寺庙来命名，渐渐地城市离我远去，我仿佛置身于时间隧道，眼看着光阴倒流，开始呼吸到古老世界的神秘气息。
很久以前每当天皇去世总要迁都，后来日本人决定把都城固定下来，并选择了奈良，时间是710年。虽然仅仅过了74年都城又一次迁到了京都，奈良却创造了8世纪日本最辉煌的文明，并奇迹般地保存了下来。
5点钟火车到达奈良。从车站出来，感觉确实是一个小小的古城，和想像的一样，没有高楼大厦的压迫感，没有游乐场的喧哗，古城像是一个慈祥的老人，平和地存在着，用宽厚的手掌抚过来来往往的人们。当然，古城也无法拒绝麦当劳，肯德鸡以及形形色色的便利店，这或许可以理解为一种包容吧。我首先在一个十字路口问了一个骑车的人，按照他的指点一直向左走，走到不能再走，往北拐，在7-11店向一个女服务生问路，然后向西走，中间又在刀具店问路，坚定了方向，又走了大概7,8分钟，经过一个PAKET超市，终于到了Nara Youth Hostel，很不起眼的建筑。
对于旅行者，如果不介意睡集体宿舍，青年旅馆是不错的选择。住一晚一般在2500元左右，早晚饭也不贵，是自助餐，保证吃的饱。目前日本境内分布着330家这样的旅馆，遍布各个地区，德岛亦有3家，分别位于大神子海岸，日和佐和大步危。
先在一楼的服务台办了入住手续，房间是202，很吃惊地发现很我住一起的都是老头。其中一个给我留下极深的印象，他竟然带了一把吉他，一个人对着窗外弹着很优美的曲子。要知道他看上去可是有60多岁的样子呦。
然后出去找地方吃饭，在回转寿司店吃了寿司。回转寿司店类似于国内的饺子馆，实惠而且便宜，花样还很多。我第一次出远门，我爸就告诉我，在外面吃饭就去饺子馆，花不了太多的钱，还能吃的饱，不象别的餐馆，很多菜都是名不副实的。在日本的回转寿司店有很多拖家带口去的，最可爱的是小孩子，眼巴巴地盯着传送线上的碟子，看到中意的就用小手一指，大人就端下来。吃寿司的过程就像国人说的，吃着碗里的，盯着锅里的。
吃完饭回去先洗了个澡，青年旅馆的浴室是公用的，结构类似于国内的大澡堂，而且特别提醒西方的房客不要穿着浴衣或者泳装，要享受日本式的”钱汤”。
洗完澡看了会儿电视，是回顾一年来日本皇室的主要活动，焦点是雅子情绪的低落，还有专门的皇室评论员分析原因。看来皇宫里的生活并不象人们想像的那样美好。
然后开始兴致勃勃地规划第二天的行程，又到服务台查询了一下，很失望地发现旅游巴士在11月底已经停开了，另一个不好的消息是唐招提寺正在维修。
晚10点上床睡觉。刚开始迷迷糊糊，后来醒来也不知道是几点，倒开始失眠了，这也是这次旅行唯一的一次失眠。
呵呵。虽然没听你讲过日语，没想到居然应付得了单身旅行。佩服！
Comment by blooming — January 6, 2005 @ 1:52 am
回转寿司店类似于国内的饺子馆，实惠而且便宜，花样还很多。—- 哦～～？奇怪！依稀记得另一个在japan留学的朋友曾说过回转寿司在那里也不便宜啊？难道是你现在的购买力已超强？
Comment by zm — January 6, 2005 @ 5:20 am
每碟100，我吃7~8碟，700~800日元，是一碗拉面的价格，但可以吃到7~8种鱼。国内的饺子一斤大概10~16元，半斤即5~8元，对我而言也不便宜，我在国内最多一个月挣280元。
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